Category: Food

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Din Tai Fung – Silicon Valley

Din Tai Fung Finally comes to Northern California

All the Asian Foodies have come out for this one. Ding Tai Fung (DTF) has finally opened an outpost in the Northern California. Opening day was met by long lines and lots of waiting. So much so that the Silicon Valley outpost was the first DTF to institute a reservation system. Weekends are pretty tough to get, and our reservation was for a Tuesday  evening.

The restaurant itself is a bit space constrained (basically the same footprint as  a medium size store in a large shopping mall)  and can accommodate perhaps a little over 100 diners inclusive of bar seating.  DTF does do a good job of spacing out the tables and booths so you are not on top of each other (in contrast to the orginal DTF in Taipei before the remodel, where diners were basically sitting elbow to elbow)  Their kitchen is also not as large as some of their other outposts, which goes back to the space constraints (or perhaps smart planning based on the anticipated space they were given.

The Food

DTF is known far and wide for their Xiao Long Bao (XLB), or dumplings encasing filling and soup. DTF has the traditional pork XLB, but also a wide variety of other fillings, including sweet ones. Since I have eaten at DTFs in Asia, I am going to compare the taste and experience. By default I was not expecting the dumplings to taste exactly the same because they can not use the same pork as in Asia.

So the comparisons should not be construed as criticisms, as the food was still good, but rather minor differences between US and Taiwan versions.

The dough was a bit stickier and chewier than Asia, but that could be because this location is working out quality issues. I appreciate how thin DTF makes it XLB, as some other restaurants’s XLBs are basically all skin with very little filling.  Also love that the fresh cut ginger that is given to each diner.  The default at other places is one dipping dish with ginger for the entire table. This allows each diner to determine the dipping sauce that suits him or her.

DTF is also know for dishes besides XLB. Their noodle soups and shu mai are good too.

 

Service

Service was prompt and friendly. Appreciated the pacing of the dishes, as not everything hit the table at once, but some may prefer the “overwhelm you with food at once” model. I suspect that will become more prevalent  as they get the kinks out and settle into a rhythm after the initial foodie flood.

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Skool – SF Asian “Fusion”

We decided to do a “play it by ear” day trip to San Francisco recently, and decided at the last minute to try Skool, which is sandwiched between Mission Bay and Potrero Hill in the Design District. The concept is best described as Asian Fusion Seafood.

The decor is modern with elements of industrial, befitting its location in what was probably a former warehouse or commercial building. There are some whimsical touches reminiscent of time spent in school. For instance, the menu is printed on sheets of lined loose leaf paper, attached to an old style clipboard and secured with an old fashion pencil.

As far as the menu items themselves, it is heavily tilted, as you might expect, toward seafood items, and divided into appetizers, cured/raw fish, salads, and main entrees. Based on Yelp reviews, we decided to do two appetizers, a “fish sampler” and the squid ink spaghettina.

Fried Smoked Salmon Chips w/Miso Aioli

Typically anything fried is by default tasty, but execution is important, else the result could run too soggy, dried out/too crispy, or just a general grease bomb. The “chips” arrived hot and perfectly fried. I expected the skins to be salty, but was pleasantly surprised it was not.  Texture was light and airy, with a hint of smokiness. The miso aioli was tasty, but definitely played second fiddle to the chips.

Baby Eryngii Fries w/ miso aioli

When I read this item on the menu, I had no clue how to properly pronounce “Eryngii” and had to be corrected by our waiter (for the record, it is pronouced er-en-gee, and rhymes with Ferengi).  Only when they hit the table did I realize Eryngii were what I called King Oyster Mushroom.  The fries were breaded in corn meal, and like the chips, arrived piping hot. The choice of mushroom was well thought out as it has a “meatier” texture than other mushrooms and provided a satisfying mouth feel.  I recommend a light dusting of lemon, which adds a nice bit of acidity to contrast the batter.  The same miso aioli came with the fries, but again, not really needed.

“Fish Sampler”
Kampachi (Amberjack) Sashimi, Watermelon, Shio-Ponzu, Kaffir Lime Oil, Cured Bergamot
Salmon Pastrami – Cured Salmon, Cresson, Wasabi Mascarpone, Kuki Wasabi
Pickled Toro Awashi – Uzura Yolk, Cucumber, Seaweed, Su-Miso Vinaigrette

We decided to get the Fish Sampler, which allows you to choose 3 out of the 4 fish/sashimi dishes on the menu.  Despite having a bunch of different elements, each of the 3 preparations work well together. The lime and orange flavors melded well with the kampachi, giving a bright contrast to the rich fish. Judging by the menu description, I expected the salmon pastrami have more of a cured taste and texture, similar to smoked salmon, but it was much closer to straight sashimi. The wasabi cream was not overpowering, and the stray pieces of dill rounded out the flavor profile nicely. The pickled sardines were nicely done, but did not stand out relative to the other two. The accompanying salad was more unique, with the quail egg providing a nice sauce/dressing.

Squid Ink Spaghettina with Garlic Tomato Compote, Red Curry, Lemongrass Dashi Broth, Seaweed Butter, Enoki Mushroom, Brussel Sprouts

Reading the description, I expected this dish to have a very punchy, in your face, “fireball” type of flavor profile with each of the elements competing for your taste buds’ attention. What came out was what I would call more restrained, but in no way less complex or “boring”.  The delicate dashi broth provided a nice base tone to a nice synchronicity of delicate and balanced flavors. And the broth is by far the star of this dish. Good thing it comes with plenty of it. The squid ink pasta provides substance and chewy texture. The squid was cooked properly, which is al dente, and not tough as rubber or “soft and slimy”.  Definitely the highlight of the evening and something I would order again.

Summary
Skool provides a nice take on Asian fusion that is whimsical and restrained, respecting the flavors and the seafood itself. It slots well in between the “special occasion” and the “let’s just go out to grab something” meals and should go on one’s list of “restaurants on rotation”. As with many restaurants in San Francisco I review, I wish they were located closer, which would motivate me to visit more often. If I lived in or closer to SF, I would definitely go more often.

Rating: Raise a majority of the time, call if there are too many other players in the pot or if you are short stacked.

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Review – Zola, Palo Alto

Zola in Palo Alto serves seasonal French cooking, which falls somewhere between bistro and super high end fine dining. The restaurant space is fairly small, seating around 50 people, with most tables being 2 or 4 toppers, with 2 larger tables able to accommodate 8 diners. Zola also only servers dinner Tuesdays through Saturdays.  Reservations are available via OpenTable, but getting a seating around your “traditional” dinner time of 7:00-7:30 can be tough on Fridays and Saturdays. Fortunately, they do have later seatings after 9:00, which was when we went this past Saturday night.

We had arrived a bit early, but were seated immediately and asked for our drink orders.  Our plan was to share a couple of appetizers and order two entrees.  The gnocchi was mentioned several time on Yelp, so we order that. And I can not resist roasted bone marrow, so that was our second appetizer course.  We opted for the short rib “Boeuf Bourguignon” and the Flounder in Beurre Blanc as entrees.

Ricotta Gnocchi
slow egg, mushrooms, brown butter, green onions

I was initially very skeptical about ordering  gnocchi, as most versions tend to be heavy, gummy wads of dough smothered in a thick sauce which then forms rocks in your gut after consuming. I was doubly concerned because it would be one of our starters, leading us to feel full before our entrees hit the table.   This dish came with a slow cooked egg, a food trend which more often than not,  works well on paper, but leaves something to be desired when actually plated.

I was pleasantly surprised. The gnocchi was nicely seared on the outside, creating a “skin” encapsulating the soft fluffy interior. The brown butter and mushrooms paired nicely to create a nice umami flavor and mixing in the slow cooked egg (which I am assuming was sour vide-d) created a nice sauce.  All the components worked well together to deliver a solid dish.  Tip: although not on the menu, you can ask for an a entree sized portion as your meal. In fact, our server said it is a pretty common request.  I would exercise this option next time I go. This dish was the clear favorite of the night.

Roasted Bone Marrow
toast, horseradish, black garlic, herb salad

Zola delivers on this classic dish, but adds a touch horseradish and has a bit of vinegary tartness and acidity. While most people spread the marrow on toast, my personal preference is to just scoop it out and eat it straight. I’n not exactly sure where the herbs of the “herb salad” was on the plate beyond the sprig of parsley. Perhaps it was charred on top when finishing the marrow in the oven and that was the intent (and would explain the acidity in the dish). This is more a criticism of the description, rather than the dish itself, which delivered on taste and execution. I still prefer Bouchon’s version, although it is  better than The Beast and the Hare’s version.

Flounder “Beurre Blanc”
fingerlings, artichokes, Sicilian capers, fines herbs

The flounder filet was perfectly cooked, tender. The capers were not overpowering or overly acidic, and gave a nice counterpoint to the fish. The fresh vegetables provide a nice textural contrast to the softer fish. Mixing slices of potatoes and diced veggies in with the sauce does  eliminate the need to prepare separate sides, making the overall presentation cleaner while providing all the components of a complete meal (protein, vegetable, and carbs).

Short Rib “Bourguignon”
traditional vegetable mirepoix, parsley bread crumbs

For folks expecting a traditional bourguignon stew, Zola’s take is much lighter than traditional preparation, relying less on the wine to provide flavoring, letting the natural richness of short rib shine more. The short rib is served in a small cast iron Dutch oven, topped with crisped bread crumbs and fried fingerling potatoes to provide some textual contrast, along with carrots, celery, and onion (the aforementioned mirepoix) cooked to an al dente consistency.  Solid execution and a good choice for short rib lovers.

Summary:
Service overall was good, although some may call it “slow”, but I would characterize more as typical French, appropriately attentive and non intrusive, allowing diners  to enjoy the dishes and each other’s company without wait staff constantly asking you how things are. If we needed anything, we just had to flag down one of the wait staff, who were prompt in responding to our requests.   Pricing is what you might expect from a restaurant in Palo Alto, with entrees ranging from the high $20s to the mid $30s, with appetizers around half that price. The wine list contains a good selection from reds to whites, Californian to French.   Portions for a French restaurant are generous and should satisfy all but the largest of eaters. A shared appetizer and 2 entrees would have been more than enough for us, but we wanted to try the gnocchi and the marrow this go around. Given the small size of the restaurant, this is not ideal for larger groups. The ideal party size would probably be 4, which would give you more of an opportunity to sample a variety of appetizers (and main entrees, if your dining companions are so pre-disposed).  A good choice for French food fans and great for date night, double date night, or small celebratory dinner.

Rating:
Solid call, Easy call for a upscale date night or small celebration meal.

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State Bird Provisions, San Francisco

Michellin Stars tend to bring out the foodies and State Bird Provisions (SBP) is no exception. SBP has a somewhat “secret club” feel, with a very nondescript storefront with no marquee or identifying markings. The only indications of the restaurant (and its popularity) was the line that formed outside the door and the cooks furiously preparing food behind a couple of large pane glass windows.

SBP’s mascot was another indication we were in the right place

Reservations can be made via their website, but are hard to come by because the restaurant saves over half the restaurant for walk-ins.  Without a reservation, you have to wait in line for a spot during their three nightly seatings: 5:30, 7:30, and 9:30. The restaurant opens at 5:30, and the line often starts at 4:30 or earlier. The restaurant is small, seating perhaps 50 or so between the tables and the counter seats.

SBP’s concept parallels Chinese dim sum, with wait staff circulating around with trays filled with small plates, with prices displayed on wooden sign. Menu items rotate, with the website saying “our menu changes very frequently, here is a list of dishes you may see this week” For example, the night we went, a Korean Scoth egg was offered, but not found on the menu.

Small plates are fired on a continuous basis from the open kitchen in the front.

There is also a seafood cart  with the day’s offering

The menu has a dozen or so entrees and “toast” dishes, which you can order via your main server.   The bottom of your menu also doubles as a tally sheet for all the small plates you order from the circulating trays.

We had read up on SBP on Yelp and solicited input from friends that have gone already. Small plates are run from the kitchen area as they are finished, but not all at once, so it pays to pace yourself, resisting the temptation to try everything that comes your way. The number of small plates varies from night to night, but they number around a dozen, including the plates from the “seafood cart”. Each of the tray runners describes their featured dish in detail… lots of detail, rattling off a fairly comprehensive ingredient list coupled with cooking and presentation method. It’s a lot to take in, but makes the experience that much more enjoyable, as you really see the passion the servers have for the food. We come to find out later that the tray runners are also the people responsible for assembling the dish, which explains why they know so much about it.  If you see a small dish you really want but it runs out before the runner gets to you, you can always put in a request to your server, and they will pick one up for you when the next round is ready.  Entrees must be ordered off the menu, and we decided to order two of them.

“Entrees”

CA state bird with provisions

This is SBP’s namesake dish, consisting of a fried deboned quail on top of a light, clear sauce and topped with some pecarino (?) cheese.  The quail was nicely brined and juicy with a crisp skin without being overgreasy.  The sauce has a nice touch of acid and sweetened by the onions, which balanced the richness of the fried quail nicely.  The cheese added a nice bit of saltiness, and while it did not add much to an already good dish, it did not distract from it either.  Would order this again on my next visit.

 maitake & duck ‘fried rice’ a la plancha

While not as large as the portions you get at a Chinese restaurant, SBP’s fried rice can be best described as sauteed duck shreds with green onion, caramelized onion, egg ribbons, and oh yeah some rice. In other words light on the rice.  While not the best dish we had that night, it would be worth ordering again, and I can see this appealing to a wide range of people, even those that may not particularly care for duck.

Small Dishes

Crudité 

This was basic chopped root veggies with a bean dip. While good and well executed, nothing special or noteworthy.

shrimp & potato ‘okonomiyaki’

This potato croquette sat on top of an aioli based shirmp salad. Flavors were subtle, and the croquette was well executed. Good starter, but will probably skip this next time around in favor of trying something new.

Dumpling with confited duck in aromatic broth

This was by far the winning dish of the evening.  So much so that we ordered another round at the end of our meal. The filling in the dumpling was confit-ed duck, giving a nice rich and punchy taste to the dumpling, which was browned on the griddle and lightly dashed with five spice powder. The aromatic broth was infused with onion, ginger, and other Asian spices, negating the need for a dipping sauce.  I would be happy with 4 or 5 or these dumplings with a nice large bowl of the broth as my meal. Yes, it was that good.

hog island sweetwater oyster, spicy kohlrabi kraut & sesame

We ordered this off the seafood cart.  Taste on this was light and delicate, highlighting the naturally sweet and briny oyster. The spicy kraut added a subtle bit of heat at the end. A nice play on your traditional Tabasco and migonette treatment. Oyster fans should like this.

duck liver mousse with almond biscuit

I will be the first to admit I do not like liver. The taste of calf liver, goose liver, duck liver all have a earthy, dirty, muddled flavor that I never acquired a taste for.  So why did we order the liver mousse? The reviewers on Yelp mentioned it was worth trying, and this was the one dish we had to request from our server because it had run out a few minutes before.  The mousse was light and fluffy, as one might expect, with enough liver flavor to make you realize what you were eating. What made the dish was pairing it with an “almond biscuit” which I would describe more like a cross between a pound cake and a corn muffin rather than your traditional southern buttermilk biscuit or what the English would describe as a biscuit (aka cracker in America).  Pairing the slightly sweet and “cake like” texture with the mousse made it very palatable, even for someone like me that usually runs far whenever liver is served.  The biscuit by itself was delicious and could easily be paired with ice cream or crème anglaise as a dessert. Liver fans should be quite pleased as well.

matsutake with pickled kombu juice

If you are looking for strong, bold flavors, this is not your dish, but I found it to be clean and subtle, highlighting the delicate nature of the mushrooms. The kombu flavor was very subtle, but that could also be that we tasted this dish in the middle of our meal, and our palates might have been muddled with other flavors. This would be a good dish to start, again if you are a fan of subtle flavors. Else, cleanse your palate with a nice dry white wine or a dish with a bit of acid.

garlic bread with burrata

This dish was also mentioned a lot in Yelp reviews, and I would have to say I was a bit disappointed by it. The bread appeared to be fried and topped with some burratta. A bit messy to eat and a disappointment. I would not order this again.

Korean Scotch Egg

This was the second to last dish we ordered, and it caught our eye as the tray was leaving the kitchen.  The egg yolk was cooked to a soft stage, and the outside was crisp and surprising light. The Korean Gochujang sauce added a nice kick to the dish as well

Dessert: eggnog ‘ice cream’ sandwich, honey cocoa coulis, pecans

I was skeptical about “egg nog” ice cream, picturing a strong egg and alcohol flavor, but like other dishes at SBP, the flavor was subtle, with the cookie and pecan adding a nice textural contrast. The chocolate coulis sauce was not overly sweet either. Nice ending to the meal.

Summary:

SBP gives off a relaxed and restrained, but at the same time edgy and quirky feel with its food and service, similar to the vibe in Austin or Portland. The cooking style seems to be part contemporary American mixed with some Californian/Asian with a dab of lab experimentation thrown in there for good measure. Will definitely appeal to foodies and the small plates allow you to try and share several things with your tablemates rather than commit to one large entree for each diner.  Given the size of the restaurant and the concept, I would say a party of four would be the ideal number as you can strike a good balance between variety and quantity. Similar to tapas,  portion sizes are small, so if you are looking for quantity, this is not the place to really “fill up” on the cheap, as ordering many small dishes quickly increases the bill. Although it is tempting to order a lot just so you can try everything. Not all dishes will appeal to all diners, and I would say some dishes will miss the mark, but what I would say at the minimum, all the dishes at SBP will leave you a bit intrigued. The skills and creativity of the exec chef(s) truly shine through and with the rotating menu,  I would be eager to visit again to see what the scientists have cooked up in the lab.

Rating: Raise

 

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Bouchon, Yountville, CA

Continuing our tour of Thomas Keller restaurants, we decided to lunch at Bouchon, which is Keller’s take on the French bistro.  We had reservations for a late lunch and were promptly greeted and seated. Decor was typical bistro, with round marble top tables and Parisian style chairs. A small patio offers outdoor dining, although during the hot summer days, I would advise an inside seat.  Evenings would probably present a better outdoor dining experience.

The menu featured typical bistro fare, including salads, small bites, and simple entrees. We decided to order some traditional fare: Salmon Rillettes, French Onion soup, roasted bone marrow, and Croque Madame.

Rillettes with smoked and fresh salmon

Rilettes is spread meant to be eaten with toast. Similar to pates, they are made by slowing cooking a type of meat slowly in fat, which in this case was butter (I admit, I had to look this up on Wikipedia to know exactly what rillettes was, but how figured, how can I go wrong with something that is like pate and basically loaded with butter?).  Bouchon’s version includes both smoked and fresh salmon and comes in a small mason jar. When presenting the jar at the table, the server opened mason jar and used a knife to remove the large disc of solidified butter on top (see top left hand side of picture above).  Our server asked if we wanted to keep the disk, and I figured, keeping it would give us some butter to spread on the toast or house bread.

The rillettes were a bit salty for my taste, probably as a result of smoked salmon, so using a little bit goes a long way. Mixing a bit of the butter from the disk helped dilute the saltiness a bit, but overall would probably skip this in the future.

French Onion Soup

A true test of a French bistro is its French Onion soup, and Bouchon’s does not disappoint. Served in a proper vessel. Yes. Baked cheese on top. Yes. Uses runny, stringy cheese (gruyere or emmental is my guess??). Check.  Crouton in the soup. Check.  Soup base not a salt bomb. Check.

The flavor of the soup base was very rich, and almost had a syrup like consistency, which leads me to believe it had been heavily reduced from a beef or even veal stock. Not overly sweet either. Portion was perfect too with all the elements working well together.

Roasted Bone Marrow with garlic, shallots, and sherry vinegar

We have had roasted bone marrow at other places, most recently at The Beast and The Hare. Bouchon’s version is by far the best we have had. Nicely balanced, rich, fatty, and silky smooth, with just a hit of acid to cut the richness of the marrow.  This is a dish i would travel back for over and over again.  Perfectly cooked and seasoned.  In fact, we were tempted to over a second plate, but decided against it, as we had already ordered a lot of food.

Croque Madame  with Pomme Frites

The bread used is a brioche (house made I assume) and the sandwich is topped with a soft fried egg and Mornay sauce.  While I appreciate the high quality ingredients and skilled preparation, the dish fell into the “nothing special” category for me and was missing a wow factor, although Bouchon’s version did stay pretty close to the spirit of a proper Croque Madame.

Summary: 

If you are looking for an authentic French bistro experience, then Bouchon delivers. Food is high quality and is reasonable (for the Napa area that is). Great for a couple or small groups. The rillettes and Croque Madame were a bit disappointing to me, but not enough to damper my desire to return and try different items on their menu, after I order the bone marrow of course.

Rating:

Easy call. Must visit if you are in the Napa Area.  Raise if you are a fan of French bistro food.

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Bouchon Bakery, Yountville, CA

No trip to Yountville would be complete without a visit to Bouchon Bakery, and would complete our Thomas Keller themed tour of Napa after Ad Hoc and Bouchon.  The bakery is known for its macarons but also has some other french style pastries and baked goods.

The individual macarons are about 2 inches in diameter, and we decided to get two, pistachio and “no-tellum” flavor, which was described as hazelnut with home made nutella spread.  Both were light and flaky and while sweet, was not candy sweet as some other ones that I have tried.  We also got a nutter butter cookie (peanut buttercream sandwiched between two peanut butter cookies)  and chocolate almond croissant to eat later in the day. Cookies were on par with others I have had, and the croissant was above average, being very flaky with the right amount of almond paste and chocolate.

Rating: 

Easy Call if you are in the Yountville area or if you are a fan of macarons
Marginal call if you have to travel some distance like we did or are not that crazy about macarons.

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Ad Hoc, Yountville, Ca

The Concept

Ad Hoc is a more casual and more affordable counterpart to Thomas Keller’s high end French Laundry, showcasing contemporary American/Californian cuisine. The concept is the same as Wakuriya, with a daily prix fixe menu (in the case of Ad Hoc 4 courses: an appetizer/ salad, main protein dish, fruit/cheese, and dessert) that rotates daily depending on what ingredients are freshly available and the executive chef’s whim.  An optional add-on small course is the only other decision diners have to make besides wines and drinks. The overall vibe is whimsical and fun.

All dishes are served family style at the table. This immensely simplifies the operations and allows the restaurant to concentrate on doing a few thing well rather than splitting its attention on several different dishes, flexes the creativity of the executive chef, and allows last minute adjustments based on what ever ingredients happen to be in season (or other circumstances, as I will outline below).  Diners, have to be equally flexible, though, being willing to accept anything that is thrown at them with little notice. This makes Ad Hoc unsuitable for picky eaters or those with dietary restrictions. The restaurant is willing to accommodate some  dietary requests (like omitting an ingredient because of allergies), as dishes are made to order, but making wholesale changes (e.g.  swapping the evening’s protein dish because you don’t like it) might not be possible.

Our experience: 

Checking the web site the day of our reservations, it looked like the main course was going to be osso busco, but when we arrived the menu stated grilled hanger steak. We found out from our server that the chefs had to make the last minute change because in his words “the osso busco was not cooked enough”. My guess was it left braising overnight and the “taste test” in the morning was not up to par. I guess the beauty of the format is that you literally can change the menu at the last minute and not disappoint your diners.

First course:

Caesar Salad with boquorines, torn garlic croutons, kalamata olives and Parmesan dressing

While it may seem simple, dressing a salad is a fine balance, and often a matter of personal taste. Besides a small amount of dressing on the bottom acting as “glue” to preserve the presentation on the plate, the salad was not pre-dressed,  arriving at the table with the dressing on the side.  Theresa and I appreciated this, as  we like salads lightly dressed, and this allows each of us to adjust according to taste. The dressing itself was not your typical Caesar dressing, having just a hint of Parmesan and not overly salty, instead allowing the salt and acidity from the anchovies and olives to provide the sodium and acid components.  A nice way to start a meal.

Second Course:
Grilled Hanger Steak with forest mushrooms, zucchini, cherry tomatoes, lemon polenta, and natural beef au jus 

The hanger steak came pre-sliced in small medallions atop the polenta. The steak was well seasoned and cooked to medium in the center.  The accompanying roasted vegetables providing a nice bit of acid and texture contrast.  The polenta was extremely rich and creamy, with no hit of grit, which makes me suspect it was cooked long and slow with lots of butter and cream. The au jus was drizzled on top of the veggies imparting additional flavor, and allowing us to dip the steak into as needed.  All the elements worked well together.

Optional Add in:
Seared Scallops with beets, bacon, and fried leeks

Per the suggestion of our server, we ordered 1 portion of the optional add-on, although we could have ordered 2 portions and I would have been happy.  This was the highlight of the evening.  Scallops tend to be a bit of a blank canvas, which can work in favor of a dish or work against it. The minimum requirement, in my mind, is a well cooked scallop, which implies a nice sear on the outside, tender innards, and proper seasoning.  The second element is the the pairing of the other ingredients. This dish delivered. The scallop was nicely seared and tender on the inside. The bacon flavor penetrated the beets (I suspect they were cooked together). The leeks provided a nice texture contrast to the softer scallop and beets, and the saltiness of the bacon matched well with the slight sweetness and acidity of the beets, lending a nice balance to the entire dish.

 

Third Course:
Shelburne Cheddar with pickled vegetables and dijon mustard

I am a bit puzzled by our third course. I looked at some other daily menus and it seems the third course is cheese or fruit based, so I guess it’s meant to be the first part of a 2 course dessert. I have never been a big fan of cheese as a dessert course, and cheese did not seem to fit into the overall progression of the meal.  As an appetizer course, this would work well, but its placement after the protein seemed like an odd choice. The cheddar did have a nice sharpness, but the pickled vegetables were bit too acidic for this point in the meal. Perhaps a softer cheese with dried fruit or other sweet element would have worked better. Theresa is not a big fan of some cheeses and with both us of being pretty full from the previous courses, we left most of this alone.

 Fourth Course:
Apple Spice Cake with Burnt Sugar Ice Cream and Vanilla Caramel

The burnt sugar ice cream’s flavor was described to us as similar to the burnt sugar on top of a creme brulee, and it was the best element in this course. Nice balance without being overly sweet, which was my concern when I heard the description. The cake itself was decent, with the flavors of mulling spice and subtle apple flavors with proper moisture level. Nothing super memorable or noteworthy compared to other desserts that I have had, but provided an adequate ending to the meal.

Service:
Service was attentive and staff very friendly. Pacing of the dishes was good and contributed to a very pleasant and welcoming dining experience. Ad Hoc has gotten this part of the dining experience equation correct and is a large reason why I would come back for a return trip.

Summary: 

Ad Hoc has a fun atmosphere and culinarily has a surprise/mystery element going for it.  For someone like me that enjoys trying different things, having a daily rotating menu and discovering what the “mad scientist” cooks will come up with is a big draw. While you won’t get exotic or expensive ingredients such as chilean sea bass or caviar, the ingredients are of high quality and farm fresh (they source ingredients from their  on site garden). The prix five menu (@$52/person) provides a reasonably priced alternative to more expensive restaurants of similar quality that populate the Napa/Sonoma area. Our visit had some minor misses here and there which may or may not have been caused by the last minute swap out of the main entree. My minor quibbles are more a result of personal taste and perhaps not seeing what the chef had envisioned with that particular night’s course pairings rather than a lack of quality or poor execution. I’m a believer in the concept and hope to return in the future to experience what new creations the chefs will come up with it.

Rating:

Easy Call, but Raise if you find yourself around Yountville or Napa.  Fold if you do not like surprises or if you are particular in your food choices. .

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Oysters at the Marshall Store, Marshall, CA

Tomales Bay near Point Reyes on California’s Pacific Coast highway (Hwy 1) is known for its oyster farms and The Marshall Store (TMS) sells fresh shucked oysters, chowder, and some BBQ items out of a building by the seashore. You order food at the counter and then sit outside on long hardwood tables set out along the shore with Highway 1 directly behind you. We had decided to take a Thursday/Friday off for a local road trip/staycation in the Bay Area, and Marshall Store was our first stop.

Marshall’s Remote Location

Marshall, CA is fairly remote, at least by most city dwellers’ standards, requiring an hour+ long drive from San Francisco  on some winding roads to reach. If you have the time, I would suggest taking the more scenic route along CA 1 from the Marin headlands at the foot of the Golden Gate up north past Muir Woods and Point Reyes. This route can get busy during peak travel times, so if you are in more of a hurry take US 101 and cut over on some of the smaller roads passing through the hills (Google Maps can direct you). But once there, you will be rewarded with a nice dining experience, especially on warmer days.

The Marshall Store “dining room”

Because of TMS’s remote location along the coast there is no cell service at all. In addition to not being able to immediately Facebook, Instagram, Snapchat your Marshall Store experience, you will not be able to connect to Google Maps to figure your exit route.  I would suggest printing out directions,  memorizing your exit route,  retracing your steps, or using your “old school” navigation system. And it goes without saying that you will be cut off from the outside world a bit, so if you are expecting calls or texts, be forewarned, you will not get them.   Restroom facilities are of the portable variety, and If you have a natural aversion to these, I suggest limiting liquid intake before the trip.

Parking is along Hwy 1 on both sides of the store with capacity for about 2 dozen cars.  Since it was a Thursday, parking was not an issue, but during busy times, you might have to park farther away along Hwy 1.

Ordering and Service

Oysters are the signature dish, so that was a must. In addition to raw oysters, TMS offers cooked varieties, namely BBQ, with Chorizo butter, Rockefeller, with bacon and Worchester sauce.  Regular prices are fairly pricey at $15/6 raw oysters and up to $18/6 oysters for the cooked varieties, but we happen to visit on a Thursday, which is $1/raw oyster day. They do not advertise this, but we talked to a couple of regulars who come fairly often and they had been running the Thursday deal for a while.   They also have some sandwiches, clam chowder, fish, and crab dishes.  Bottled drinks can be found in large glass door fridges, and include beer, wine, sodas, and juices.

You  order at the counter, pay for your drinks,  leave your name for the order, and take a seat. While there are seats inside, unless it is raining or totally fogged in, you should sit outside at the long hardwood tables.  A server brings out the trays  from the shucking/grill room  shouting out your name at which point you flag them down to claim your order.

The Food:

We decided on ordering a dozen raw oysters, 1 order of  BBQ-ed oysters, the house smoked tri-tip sandwich, and clam chowder.

Quality ingredients stand on their own, and the oysters delivered.  Freshly plucked from Tomales Bay and shucked, they were satisfyingly briny and tender with the right amount of oyster liquor remaining in the shell to finish.  For those that prefer, the oysters came with lemon wedges and  migonette sauce, which had cilantro in it. Tabasco can be found on the table as well. We actually ordered a second dozen,taking full advantage of the $1/oyster special.

The BBQ oysters are  grilled to order,  topped with housemade BBQ and accompanied by a couple pieces of herb seasoned bread. For those weary of raw oysters, this is a good option.  Worth trying, but I have had better cooked oysters else where.

Let’s face it, going on oysters alone, we would be hungry in a couple of hours.  So every oyster bar has some “filler” items to accompany their bivalves, and TMS is no exception.  The chowder comes in 2 sizes, cup and bowl, at $6 and $8 and you serve yourself at the end of the counter. TMS’s chowder is not the paste like, cream dominated chowder found in most places, but thinner like a hearty stew, filled with potatoes and clams.  Flavor was good and pairs well with oysters.

The tri-tip sandwich with house smoked beef was a decent size and had a nice balance of meat to bread to toppings and ranking in the middle of the pack in terms of my sandwich rankings. Sure beats packaged lunch meat slapped between two pieces of bread.

Overall Thoughts:

The decision to go to TMS is a fairly extreme case of having to choose between a relatively high overall cost in both time and dollars spent at the restaurant verses the quality of the food and dining experience.  While it is tough to beat the freshness of Tomales Bay oysters plucked directly from the water and the pretty decent “filler” items that TMS serves,  the fact remains that food transportation is pretty efficient these days, and you can get Tomales Bay oysters the day after (and sometimes day of) harvest around the SF Bay area fairly easily (e.g. Hogg island Oyster Farm’s restaurant locations).

TMS’s regular prices for oysters are comparable to other restaurants offering super fresh shucked oysters.  This makes the drive out there a significant component in the overall cost equation when considering both time and gas. Visiting The Marshall Store would be a great stop if you happen to be going to Point Reyes or up north on CA 1 as part of a road trip like we did, and the  $1 oysters  were definitely a bonus in the cost calculation. However, how often will the typical person have a free Thursday to drive out to the coast before the 4pm closing time? We happen to just luck out when we went, else we would probably have fewer oysters and more fillers.  If you are the sort that prefers to pay a small premium to have things shipped to you, then I would pass on TMS.

Rating:

Easy, No Brainer Call, IF  you are geared up for a road trip, like outdoor coastal dining,  and are a fan of oysters.  Otherwise,  if you prefer to let others do the driving or are not a raw oyster aficionado, folding is the wise course of action.

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Fleming’s Steakhouse- Stanford Shopping Center, Palo Alto

Theresa’s cousin Larry had mentioned Fleming’s Prime Steak had a three course dinner special running. We have always wanted to try Fleming’s, so we went with him and his wife plus another one of Theresa’s cousins this past Friday.  Fleming’s markets itself as a premium steakhouse, slotting between the likes of Outback and the very premium steakhouses like Alexander’s and Sundance.  I would put it in the same category as Capital Grille.

The special consisted of three courses: an “amuse bouche”, choice of soup or salad, and a surf n turf.

Food impressions:

Amuse Bouche:
PAN-SEARED SCALLOP
over goat cheese polenta, fresh chives and seared grape tomatoes

Presentation was nice, with the scallop was nicely seared and seasoned. the underlying polenta had the requisite creamy texture, with the goat cheese adding a subtle flavor. In fact, Theresa and a couple of our dining companions who don’t really like goat cheese commented that they did not realize there was goat cheese in the polenta until I pointed it out.  Tomatoes provided a nice acidic counterpoint to the rich polenta. My one criticism was that the scallop was a bit on the cool side, so the sear was not as “crispy” as if it were fresh out of the pan.

FRENCH ONION SOUP
baked with gruyère and parmesan cheeses

Onion soups, at least the less expensive ones, tend to be salt bombs, but the Fleming’s version was not.  The soup base was well balanced and had a nice oniony sweetness to it. The choice of cheese was appropriate and had a good stringiness that you would expect. My soup lacked the traditional crouton underneath the cheese (perhaps I could not find it or it disintegrated into the soup). Not a huge deal, but traditionalist might miss it.  The presentation was a little off in that I would have expected the  cheese to be melted on top of the soup in stead of a swimming in it. This is a bit of a nit pick, but given the price point and target market segment, I would have expected something more refined. Operationally it would not be hard to ladle the soup into large ramekins, top with a sheet of cheese, and run under the broiler, and serve to the table.  Lots of less expensive restaurants do this.  Perhaps it’s the traditionalist in me.

8-OZ. FILET MIGNON AND 8-OZ. LOBSTER TAIL
with drawn butter

Our entrees were delivered to our table, with a warning that the plates are extremely hot. The filet had a nice looking sear on the outside.
 Cutting into it and taking the first bites, I could tell the quality of the steak was good (i.e. much better than what you would get at an Outback or Black Angus, as expected of a restaurant in this tier),. My filet came out as shown above. I ordered it medium rare, but my feeling was it was closer to the medium than medium rare side. It was not enough to send the steak back, but it was not my idea of a perfectly executed medium rare steak. My steak was also underseasoned (or perhaps unseasoned?), requiring me to add salt, whereas Theresa’s and others’ were fine as served.
The same could be said of my lobster tail. You could clearly tell by the curl and general appearance that the lobster was a bit over cooked (at least for my taste). Again, it was not cooked to the point where I would send it back, but I would expect a restaurant on this level to pay attention to these types of details.  My dining mates also had similar comments, with each of us having varying degrees of doneness for both the steak and the lobster.  My suspicion is the plates were held under a warming lamp, broiler, or oven for too long after initial cooking.

 

Dessert: 
As a group, we also shared their molten lava cake with vanilla ice cream for dessert. It takes roughly 10 minutes to prepare and we ordered shortly after finishing dinner.  The plate came out accompanied by freshly whipped cream, a couple of scoops of ice cream, and baked wafer pieces.  The liquid center was nice and warm/flowing, and not overly sweet.  The portion is on the larger side, so I would recommend sharing this.  One of the better lava cakes I have had. I would not call it a “must try” item, but if you are a chocoholic or want to have a nice dessert after your meal, this delivers, although at a premium price ($14.50)

 

Overall Impressions: 
While my overall experience at Fleming’s was a positive one (good atmosphere, service was fine, the food was good, but not great), I am a bit nagged by the inconsistency in execution and lack of attention to detail in the back of the house for a restaurant in this price category.  Perhaps Fleming’s suffers from the same challenges all chain restaurants have in execution, which is what I felt my case was on this visit. With steaks and seafood, proper cooking and timing the delivery of the entrees are critical. For the price, I would have expected more and I  don’t think they delivered the incremental value over their less expensive competitors.  I am glad we got to try the experience with the less expensive offer, as the prices for their normal entrees is what I would consider pretty high.

 

Rating: 

Call if given the right price, but fold if you want to save your bankroll for a better opportunity